A busy trading port in ancient times, Albufeira declined into a
poor fishing town in the 18th century, having been swamped by tidal
waves and burnt out by civil war. But since the 1960s the tide has
turned again and this central Algarve enclave is once more awash
with prosperity, thanks to a tourist boom. Albufeira, Portugal's
most popular resort, has been described as a stretch of
'holiday-land suburbia', spreading from the old town both east and
west along the coast, its sandy coves and golden beaches drawing an
assorted crowd from retired couples to wild teens, and plenty of
families with young children. Satellite resort developments provide
every imaginable type and grade of accommodation. Everyone finds
something to enjoy in this sprawling, low-rise holiday Mecca, which
retains its old world charm in narrow alleyways behind the new hip
and happening "Strip". The Strip, to the east of town, runs from
the Montechoro Hotel down to the Praia da Oura, lined with dozens
of cafes, restaurants and bars that keep pumping from breakfast
time to the small hours. On the long stretch of beach below the
central square, accessed through a tunnel, craggy fishermen mend
their nets unperturbed by the languishing topless sunbathers around
them. While the chief attraction of Albufeira is its 23 or so
enchanting beaches, most protected by ochre-tinted cliffs, there
are some interesting sightseeing possibilities too, like the new
Virtual Archaeological Museum, the Municipal Art Gallery and a
small museum showcasing Ming ceramics. Those who venture inland
will find a tranquil green countryside to explore, redolent with
almond, fig, orange and pine trees, where little villages stand
timelessly in the sun.