The last Lodi Sultan moved his capital to Agra in 1504, and
although he was defeated in 1526 by Babur, the founder of the Mogul
empire, it remained India's premier city for almost two centuries.
The city's greatest days were during the reign of Babur's grandson,
Akbar the Great (1556-1605) who built Agra Fort, and although Shah
Jahan created a new Capital in Delhi his heart remained here. In
1631 he chose Agra as the spot to construct the world's greatest
monument to love - the Taj Mahal.
For many, Agra represents the best and worst of India. The city
is a daunting sensory experience for even the most hardened
traveller; the streets are foul, the air polluted and, particularly
in the alleyways around the Taj Mahal, you will come across the
most persistent touts and rip-off merchants in the East. Despite
this, its magnificent sights alone make a visit to India
worthwhile.
Agra, along with Delhi and Jaipur, forms the 'Golden Triangle',
India's favourite tourist route. Situated just 125 miles (200km)
south of Delhi, it makes an easy day trip by train. However it is
worth spending at least a night here just to truly appreciate the
wondrous Taj Mahal and its many moods; at dawn the mausoleum
changes from grey to pink to brilliant-white.